Buying an iPhone is a bit like getting married to Pamela Anderson and then finding out she’s done a porno. Almost everything is exquisite, near perfect, round, supple and enticing. But you quickly start finding out that a few assumptions you made were wrong, and everyone knew but you.
It is no secret that I am one of the remaining few who still enjoys a glass of Cloudy Bay, the “iconic”, yet some say over-priced, fire-starter of the Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc phenomenon, even though they “sold out” to LVMH and revered founder, David Hohnen, left in 2003.
Strange then that I have never tried any of the wines of Hohnen’s other famous former enterprise, Cape Mentelle, from Australia’s Margaret River.
Being a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, as opposed to the pure SB of Cloudy Bay adds a softness to the wine. Less of the gooseberry and rhubarb of Cloudy Bay and just a touch of honey and pear thrown into the mix. Less acidic and therefore perhaps suited to a range of foods.
I really like it but like Cloudy Bay, it is not so cheap. I got this from Majestic at £11.99.
The title may sound like a cryptic crossword clue, but it simply refers to the last time I tried Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc, the 2006 vintage, which was a superb example of this varietal’s clichéed ability to smell of cat pee. I was pleased to receive a bottle of the 2007 recently as part of a mixed case so I wondered if I should hide the neighbour’s cat (on heat) before I opened it.
I know some of you beat up on Kiwi SBs and find them the height of 1990’s fashion - so last decade man - yawn, yawn, yawn. If you are one of those, or you are not into feline urolagnia, switch off now.
A red letter day….or rather, a brown box day. My first case of 2007 New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs est arrivé and I am over-excited, but there is good news and bad:
I am slightly disappointed that Dog Point is not included in this year’s case. But this is more than made up for by the price, which at £110 including two bottles of Cloudy Bay seems particularly good value.
The brown box had been left outside my front door, and the ambient temperature was a perfect 8 degrees, so I immediately unpacked the box and cracked open (or rather unscrewed the cap of) the Cloudy Bay. I expected a complex rhubarb and citrus aroma, like the 2006, but was surprised to get a noseful of gooseberry.
Is it really necessary? On a bicycle? I mean, I am thinking of buying a mountain bike but should I put a bell on the handlebars? Enough of the knock knock jokes, let’s get straight to tonight’s wine which is the last remaining in a case of Kiwi Sauvignon Blancs I procured from the Wine Society, and the second most expensive of the batch.
The title of most expensive, was awarded, obviously, to Cloudy Bay 2006 Sauvignon. A pure rhubarb delight but so it should be for the best part of £20. This Isabel 2006 was also from Marlborough but I only had to work for 23 hours to afford it. At 13% alcohol, it had the typical gooseberry aroma, but it was more complex than most Kiwi SBs. White grapefruit with caster sugar was my conclusion. Perhaps notes of honey adding interest.
A super long finish of refined zing. I think it’s a real challenger to Cloudy Bay.
Is it so wrong to like Cloudy Bay? It used to be the wine for the cognoscenti but it got a bit too big for its boots. It’s not exactly a mass produced and marketed wine like Jacob’s Creek (perish the thought), but those in the know yawn and say “Cloudy Bay? It’s a bit 1990’s man….”
OK so I’ve slagged off New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs. Well actually, far from having slagged them off, I’ve merely suggested that French Sauvignons, and in particular, those from the Loire Valley should be given a 2nd chance. But I’ve always expressed my admiration for NZ Sauvignons, and Cloudy Bay is my favourite so far.
So when I was offered the chance to buy a mixed case of Kiwi SBs from 2006, including a bottle of Cloudy Bay for only £109, I jumped at the chance to make a few comparisons. An opportunity to retest my theory that the French are moving ahead again in quality and VFM.
The first bottle I tried was Dog Point 2006. But this was no dog!
New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs have had a good time recently but I think the old world is fighting back with aplomb.
To support my case I am going to ask you when the last time you tried a Sancerre - any Sancerre. Or a Pouilly Fumé? Find the right one and you get sublime Sauvignon Blanc with more subtlety than the impudent new world youths.
I saw the musical recently at Leeds Grand Theatre - it was so so. This post is nothing to do with musicals though.
Regular readers will know that I am a new member of the Wine Society in the UK and have been experimenting with various wines, mostly the Society’s own brands.
At £7.50 the Society’s New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2006 is less than half the price of Cloudy Bay but way more than half the quality.
Stumble It!