Archive for February, 2012

Jean-Marc Burgaud, Régnié Vallières 2010

Saturday, February 25th, 2012

Although it is rumoured that I can poach an egg, I am, in truth, impotent in the kitchen. If I was a porn star, I suspect that I would really struggle with the vinegar stroke, not least the timing thereof.

I’ve been experimenting with a pork chop recipe comprising various measures of mustard, thyme, garlic, skillets, pans and ovens. I’m certain that the ingredients are all going to work in balance one day, but it may take me another 30 years to get there.

Equal challenges must be faced by winemakers. How do you get that elusive balance? This Régnié has zingy plums, spice, bright acidity and just enough tannins to match up to a robust (even burnt) pork dish at a beautifully light 12.5% ABV. Unusual for the Gamay grape to display such agility. Softcore as ever, a rare bed partner of longevity.

Kitchen W8, Kensington, London

Saturday, February 18th, 2012

They say you should never judge a book by its cover and I guess that goes for the title too. With the external look of a mid range café, and named after the second smallest room in a house (1930’s house at any rate), Kitchen W8 does not elicit Great Expectations.

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Frog’s Leap Merlot, 2007

Sunday, February 12th, 2012

If you like a bit of bully and you live within a light year of London, you will have already tried Goodman, the Russian owned, New York inspired steak house. With an amazing wine list that tips more than a nod and wink towards Uncle Sam.

I spotted a Frog’s Leap on the menu on a recent visit, but not being able to afford London restaurant prices, I got my iPhone out, dialled up the Wine Society’s app and by the time I got home there were a couple of bottles on the doorstep. I know what you are thinking, and the answer is that I only live half a light year from London.

This example, from 2007 is, I think, 100% Merlot and brings to mind refined smoky tea and blackcurrants – a perfect match for a fillet steak. It’s an absolute joy to find a Californian wine that is subtle, fragrant and underpowering in a 13.5% ABV kind of way. Reminds me of the best of Bordeaux’s Rive Droite. Not wishing to confuse which merchant I bought this from, the wine is majestic. Don’t make the mistake of drinking it too warm – 16-18ºC is just dandy.

Current price at The Wine Society is £22. Not cheap, but well worth it for a special occasion. On the downside, Frog’s Leap has the most annoying website I have ever seen, wine or otherwise…

Cheval des Andes, 2005

Wednesday, February 1st, 2012

My (software) day job is pretty intense right now. I can’t afford to spend hours researching wine. Yet, somehow, I still find time to drink it (early evenings only, you understand, and in sensible measures).

So, you can find all about this Franco-Argie mix just by Googling it, or by visiting Jamie Goode’s excellent Wine Anorak.

If you want a handful of words about whether to invest your hard earned readies (at >£50 per bottle, you may well want to ponder for a moment before you ring Barclays for a banker’s draft), read on.

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