Confessions of a Wino

I’m a massive fan of Frog’s Leap Merlot. Although a Stateside virgin by comparison to most oenophiles, my early experiences of Californian wine massively dispel the myth that they are over-alcoholic, overpowered and over here. And I consider Chardonnay to be a sadly and mistakenly forgotten, and under-rated grape. The chances are better than a plebiscite’s at the Whitehall Main Gate that this will be great.

Sadly, I am left disappointed. There are bags of fruit, and the finish is longer than a John Holmes video. But the acidity is stark. Long finishes are fine on the casting couch, but nobody really wants the climax to taste of a poorly constructed French dressing.

Maybe I got a bad bottle. I have a couple more to try (£17 from The Wine Society). But, barring a U-turn of Mark Thatcher proportions, I’m going to stick to the Merlot (at £22 much better value IMO)….and the Pedestrian Gate.

A sunny Sunday in New York means one thing, a walk along the Highline. Well, maybe two: brunch at Standard Grill. But what about Sunday lunch/dinner? Where would you suggest? What is the third “must do” thing on an epicurian’s or wino’s agenda? One recommendation landed in my Twitter timeline, the sister of Gramercy Tavern. Can you guess what happened next?

A few tweets later and I’m booked in for a lazy and late lunch. To be served super food by extremely friendly staff.

One great example of the food, Blood Clams, were raw with a Bloody Mary poured in. A rare example of when shellfish goes with red wine. My choice of Long Meadow Ranch was apparently so insightful, it warranted a special inquiry (note the American spelling there) from the Sommelier. “Oh, I figured you must be a wino to order that”.

In fact, Californian wines are only just making it onto my bucket list. Frog’s Leap and Ridge being two examples. LMR is not far behind.

The interior design is funky and cool, the staff are brill, the food is inventive, fun and tasty, and you can get drunk on interesting, or expensive vino. What’s not to like?

Union Square Café
21 E 16th St
(between W Union Sq & 5th Ave)
New York, NY 10003
T: +1 (212) 243-4020
W: www.unionsquarecafe.com

If you like a bit of bully and you live within a light year of London, you will have already tried Goodman, the Russian owned, New York inspired steak house. With an amazing wine list that tips more than a nod and wink towards Uncle Sam.

I spotted a Frog’s Leap on the menu on a recent visit, but not being able to afford London restaurant prices, I got my iPhone out, dialled up the Wine Society’s app and by the time I got home there were a couple of bottles on the doorstep. I know what you are thinking, and the answer is that I only live half a light year from London.

This example, from 2007 is, I think, 100% Merlot and brings to mind refined smoky tea and blackcurrants – a perfect match for a fillet steak. It’s an absolute joy to find a Californian wine that is subtle, fragrant and underpowering in a 13.5% ABV kind of way. Reminds me of the best of Bordeaux’s Rive Droite. Not wishing to confuse which merchant I bought this from, the wine is majestic. Don’t make the mistake of drinking it too warm – 16-18ºC is just dandy.

Current price at The Wine Society is £22. Not cheap, but well worth it for a special occasion. On the downside, Frog’s Leap has the most annoying website I have ever seen, wine or otherwise…